How to choose a carpenter in Australia
A carpenter can be the cheapest trade on a renovation or the most expensive mistake of your build. The difference is how you pick one. This guide walks through the eight checks that matter, written from the inside of the trade rather than from a comparison site that has never swung a hammer.
Carpentry covers everything from a single shelf to a full timber-framed extension. The licensing rules, the standards, the insurance and the right questions all change depending on which kind of job yours is. Use this checklist before you pay a deposit.
1. Licence — cosmetic vs structural
Carpentry licensing in Australia is not a single yes or no. Cosmetic work like skirting, architraves, built-in cabinetry and shelving usually does not require a builder's licence, especially under low-value thresholds that vary by state. Structural work always does. That includes load-bearing walls, decks more than one metre off the ground, pergolas over ten square metres, any roof framing, and any work that affects the structural integrity of the house.
In QLD that licence is issued by the QBCC. In NSW it is via NSW Fair Trading. In VIC it is the VBA. Ask the carpenter what licence they hold and which class. If your job is structural and the carpenter only has a handyman ticket, you have a problem — both legally and at insurance claim time if something fails.
2. Fixed quote with materials itemised
Carpentry quotes come in two flavours: labour-only or materials-and-labour. Either is fine, as long as you know which one you are getting. Labour-only quotes are common when the homeowner is supplying timber from their own builder's account. Materials-and-labour quotes are normal for decks, pergolas and any standalone structural job.
Always ask for materials to be itemised. That means: timber species, grade, length and quantity, fixings (brand and type), waterproofing membranes if any, and concrete for footings. A quote that just says "materials: $4,000" gives you no way to compare against another quote and no way to question variations later.
3. Decking — timber species and fixings
For a deck, ask two questions: what species and grade of timber, and how are the boards fixed? Merbau is the classic Australian premium decking timber — hard, dense and long-lasting, but it bleeds tannin for the first year and stains anything below it. Spotted gum and blackbutt are excellent native alternatives. Treated pine H3 is the budget option and works fine if you maintain it. The wrong answer is untreated softwood, which will rot in two seasons.
Then ask about fixings. Face-fixed means screws driven through the top of the board into the joist. It is fast, strong and you can see every screw head. Hidden fixings clip the board from below or use side channels, leaving the deck face clean. Hidden fixings cost more and take longer but they are a quality indicator. They also avoid the rust streaks that face-fixed screws can produce after a few years near the coast.
4. Pergola — permits and council
Many homeowners assume a pergola is a backyard project that does not need approval. Often that is wrong. If the pergola is attached to the house, larger than ten square metres, in a bushfire-prone area, or in a heritage zone, you almost certainly need a permit. Requirements vary by state and even by suburb.
A good carpenter will tell you up front what permit you need and offer to handle the council application as part of the quote (or refer you to a draftsperson). A bad carpenter will say "mate, no one bothers" and leave you holding the fine, the rectification order, and the legal cost of having to pull it down. If a council inspector turns up after a neighbour complaint, the carpenter is gone — you are the one with the problem.
5. AS 1684 framing standard
AS 1684 is the Australian Standard for residential timber-framed construction. It governs stud spacings, beam spans, lintel sizes, wind tie-down requirements and how a timber frame transfers load to the foundation. Any carpenter doing structural framing — a wall extension, a new bedroom, a garage conversion, a roof — should be working to AS 1684 by default.
You do not need to be the expert. You just need to ask "is the framing to AS 1684?" and watch the response. A carpenter who frames every week will give you a normal answer in seconds. A carpenter who has been winging it will change the subject. That tell is worth more than any reference check.
6. Insurance
Ten million dollars of public liability insurance is the standard for any carpentry work involving height, machinery or working alongside other trades. That covers the case where a tool falls off the deck onto a neighbour, a stack of timber damages a fence, or a power saw starts a small fire.
Ask to see the certificate of currency. A verbal "yeah I'm covered" is not insurance. Check the expiry date — many tradies have a certificate from three years ago that lapsed. If the carpenter cannot produce a current one, do not let them on the site.
7. Red flag — quotes without a site visit
For decks, pergolas and any structural job, a carpenter cannot give you a real quote without a site visit. Ground levels, soil type, access for materials, overhead power lines, existing structures, and how the new work ties in all change the price.
A carpenter who quotes a deck off a phone description is either guessing or planning to load up the variations once they arrive. Either way you are exposed. Insist on a site visit. A carpenter worth hiring will turn up to look before they put a number on paper.
8. The phone test
Carpenters work with loud tools. Drop saws, nail guns, drills. Phones live in the ute, on silent, and rarely get answered between 7 and 4. The best carpenters in your area now run an answering service or AI receptionist that picks up every call, asks the right qualifying questions and books the quote in their calendar.
You can read about how Australian carpenters handle their calls on our carpenter answering service page. If you are also pricing other trades for the same job, see our guide on how much a plumber charges in Sydney for a sense of how trade rates compare.
FAQ
Do carpenters need a licence in Australia?
Cosmetic carpentry like skirting, architraves, built-in shelves and cabinetry installation often does not require a licence. Structural work does. Load-bearing walls, decks over one metre off the ground, pergolas over ten square metres and any framing carrying a roof require a builder's licence in most states. Always ask which licence they hold.
Should a carpentry quote include materials?
Either is fine, but you must know which you are getting. Labour-only quotes are common for renovations where the homeowner already has the timber. Materials-and-labour quotes are normal for decks, pergolas and structural work. The danger zone is a quote that does not say which it is. Always ask for itemised materials with brand and grade.
What timber should I use for a deck?
Merbau is the classic premium Australian decking timber: hard, dense, lasts decades but bleeds tannin for the first year. Spotted gum and blackbutt are excellent native alternatives. Treated pine H3 is the budget option and works fine if maintained. The wrong choice is untreated softwood, which will rot in two seasons.
What is the difference between face-fixed and hidden deck fixings?
Face-fixed means screws driven through the top of the board into the joist. It is fast, strong and obvious. Hidden fixings clip the board to the joist from below or via a side channel, leaving a clean top surface. Hidden fixings cost more and take longer but they are a quality indicator and avoid screw-head rust streaks down the line.
Do I need a permit for a pergola?
Often yes, especially if it is attached to the house, larger than ten square metres, or in a heritage zone. Council requirements vary by state and even by suburb. A good carpenter will tell you what permit you need and offer to handle the council application as part of the quote. A bad one will say 'mate, no one bothers' and leave you holding the fine.
What is AS 1684 and why does it matter?
AS 1684 is the Australian Standard for residential timber-framed construction. It covers stud spacings, beam spans, tie-down requirements for wind, and how timber framing connects to the rest of the house. Any carpenter doing structural framing should be working to AS 1684. If they have never heard of it, they should not be framing your house.
How much public liability insurance should a carpenter carry?
Ten million dollars of public liability is standard for any carpentry work involving height, machinery or work near other trades. Ask to see the certificate of currency, not just a verbal yes. The certificate has an expiry date — check it has not lapsed.
Can a carpenter quote a deck or pergola without seeing it?
No. A carpenter who quotes a deck or pergola sight unseen is either guessing or planning to load up the variations once they arrive. Site access, ground levels, soil type, existing structure and overhead obstructions all change the price. A real quote follows a real site visit.
Are you the carpenter?
Stop missing quotes while the drop saw is running. Our AI receptionist answers every call, books the job and texts the customer back, 24/7.
See the carpenter answering service